Fred MacMurray would be a little confused.
The three sons of the place’s name are actually Michael Indovina, his wife, Kathy, and his daughter, Becky. The name is a remainder from when they bought the six-year-old bottle shop a few months back from its original owner.
It’s easy to miss, sitting there in some anonymous strip mall on Route 19 in Wexford. But miss it you should not.
The Indovinas keep roughly 800 beers on the floor or in coolers at any given time, plus another 10 or a dozen on tap. (Yes, they just got Mad Elf on tap. And a fresh case of Vertical Epic. Jeez.)
They seem to go out of their way to treat people right. Order a beer on tap and if it comes out with more head than Michael would like, he’ll most likely offer to top it off for you when it settles down.
The titular dogs are all kinds of hotdogs — the Burgh dog with chili, cheese and bacon or the Chicago dog with electric green sweet relish, sport peppers, a dill pickle plank, onions, mustard, tomatoes and celery salt. There’s also a Frankfurt dog: spicy brown mustard and a sauerkraut made in-house.
“It’s my mother’s secret recipe,” Becky said. “OK, no, not really. But she likes it when I say that.”
The hotdogs themselves are good and meaty — all beef, crisp casing — and the rolls they use actually taste like bread and add something to the whole thing.
Just know that “cheese” means a melty plastic nacho cheese from a pump. Not a judgment, just an observation. It was a surprise to me.
They’ve thought about doing an occasional beer-pairing dinner there, but only once they get more settled in. Already, they have free samples of beer every Thursday evening. (Except this week, when it’s today because of Thanksgiving.)
They’d like to do more with food, but without installing a full kitchen or turning the place into a pub.
“Our liability insurance would go through the roof,” Kathy said. “And that’s not really the type of place we want to be. We got it pretty good here.”