Ambience, Cheap eats, Ingredients, Neighborhoods, Oakland


This is about the genius of the accidental.

In Pittsburgh’s Oakland neighborhood, right near Pitt, is one of the unlikeliest places to get an incredible falafel sandwich. The sign above the little door on Oakland Street says “Leena’s Food.” The place has old tables, old chairs, an old poster of Jerusalem tacked to a wall. It’s tiny, maybe room for 20 people to sit.

And then there is Mohammed. He runs the place. Wiry and Fu Manchu’d, he crushes his own chickpeas for the falafel and seasons them his own way. He doesn’t ignore the usual: cumin, coriander, ginger, cinnamon, etc.

But there’s something else, too.

“Cardamom,” he said. “Nobody uses it much because of the price.”

What he gets costs about $30 a pound these days. And he uses a lot.

“It’s on accident,” he said. “I was in a hurry making a big batch one day and my son brought over all the spices. I just wasn’t paying attention and put in too much. I didn’t even realize.”

Then he made his son a falafel sandwich.

“He said, ‘Dad, what did you do?’ and I said to him, ‘Oh no, is it bad?'” Mohammed said. “He said, ‘No, Dad, this is awesome.'”

It really is. Distinctive, too.

The sandwich isn’t perfect. The falafel itself was a bit mushy and the shredded iceberg lettuce is bland, but in a way that almost works as a needed counterpoint to the earthy spices in the falafel and the hot pepper Mohammed adds to the sandwich.

Sorry. Needed a couple bites first. What's the point in writing about food if you're not hungry?

Still. This isn’t about perfection. Only serendipity.

Accidents abound in making food great. An extra anchovy that slipped into the oil. Grating the wrong cheese. Running out of celery and using fennel.

Little things.

There’s a farmer’s market in Arkansas where a woman sells the best pickled jalapenos on the planet. She first made them by accident. She was going to pickle a batch of okra and then some jalapenos using different spices. She screwed up, putting jalapenos in an okra-spiced jar.

She told me she was afraid even to try them. Maybe if she just gave them to friends, no one would notice much.

She ate one. Loved it. She likes to slice them open and slather in a little cream cheese with crushed pecans.

Her secret? Dill. Dill and jalapenos.

Maybe it shouldn’t work. Yet it does. Because — sure, why not.


4 thoughts on “Leena’s.

  1. Pingback: Tweets that mention Leena’s. | eatsburgh --

  2. Pingback: Eatsburgh Eats the Burgh in Boring Pittsburgh

  3. wlad says:

    I’ve been trying to replicate the seasoning of their salads for *years* (I don’t live in the ‘burgh anymore). Now I know to try cardamom!

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